I had probably my first truly remarkable experience here in Florence just a few minutes ago. True, the past few days of wandering around, eating great food, having a few drinks in bars and meeting a whole lot of people have been great, but this was just incredible.
My roommate Kevin thought he had lost his wallet last night after coming back from the center of Florence. He and Garret took a cab back to our place on a street called Via del Mezzetta, which is about a 20 minute drive from the middle of town. He panicked all day and eventually used most of all our phone cards to call home and cancel his credit cards, knowing he now really had no way of getting to his money back home, bank or credit. Long story short, the wallet turned up and we set off to thank the man who had found it and turned it in.
Expecting a short and awkward conversation with a man knowing little Italian, Kevin brought Garret and I along in order to have some sort of Italian know-how present. Steve came as well. When we got there, we found a welcoming old man speaking English in a British accent. He took no time in ushering us into his apartment and sitting us down for a chat. A chat that turned out to be an hour long talk, mostly about his life. This man, last name Ballerini, (I chuckled a little inside), was born in Florence to Italian parents, then moved to England for school with three brothers. This was in the mid 1930s. As WWII started, he joined the Italian air force, one of his borthers the British air force, and another brother the Italian army. After the war, he married an Italian woman and settled down in Florence, where he was a bus driver for 28 years. This man retired when he was 48 or 49 years old. That alone just blew my mind. With a great government pension and a lifetime buspass, he and his wife (married 63 years!) raised their daughters (now aged 57 and 63) in Italy and would vacation in America in the 1970s and 80s.
Having lost his wife in 2007, this man goes about life in the most admirable, picturesque way imaginable. He's up and to the cemetery at 8am every day to see his wife, out for a walk afterward, frequently to nearby villages to buy his preferred wine, and is overall leading a diligent, dignified solitary life in Florence Italy after a life that's brought him all over the world and among all kinds of people. Sitting there for over an hour, I was shocked when he told us he was 86 years old. He spoke and looked as if he was at least fifteen years younger. Expecting to find an ornery Italian crank, we instead landed upon a man who had lived longer than the four of us combined, with more stories to tell and people to remember than I may ever have. Signore Ballerini was a treasure, and I really hope run into him in the morning here near Via del Mezzetta.
This is why I decided to study abroad.
Scott